Wow! I am so glad I am taking this class. It’s amazing. Kenneth King is amazing. This system is amazing. Truly!
So, where to start… Kenneth King gave a brief history of moulage and spoke about his teacher (sorry forgot her name) and how he was taught. Very interesting. We were given two worksheets and an instruction booklet on how to create our custom pant pattern or sloper. Basically the pant pattern is based on three main measurements beyond the obvious of the length measurement and where they fall on your body. The natural waist is the starting point. After finding and measuring your natural waist, you find and measure the half hip and the full hip points on your body. From there, you plug in those measurements (and others) into some equations in the booklet and voila, you have all the information to start drafting your sloper! I can’t believe how simple it is. Of course, the real genius is coming up with those equations, which Mr. King so kindly provided.
We buddied up and took each other’s measurements (that’s where errors might occur right off the bat, but you can correct them, if any were made, in the muslin). Next up, we used those measurements to calculate all the points with which to draft our sloper. Kenneth was hilarious throughout the class and what a great teacher. He astounded us with his amazing talent of figuring out the calculations in a nanosecond — we’re talking fractions here, not a decimal system in sight. There were two FIT students in the class, but he treated the newbie students (one of which was me, of course) no differently; he was never condescending. Oh and he’s really patient with dumb people (me again) and he’s a natural teacher.
Then we started drafting one of the front pattern pieces (two legs = two front pattern pieces). Here’s a pic of the top of my sloper so far. Apologies for the poor picture. I was using pencil to draw my lines on tissue paper and it really doesn’t photograph well.
The top line is the natural waist. The next line below is the half hip and the third is the full hip. You can see the crotch curve on the right.
The instructions had all sorts of directions, based on your measurements and calculations, to adjust the sloper so that it would work in 3-d form. For instance, if point G was more than 1/2 inch away from axis E then move point G to within the zone of axis E and adjust the same amount on the other side of the sloper. If you don’t understand that, I’m sorry but I don’t know how to explain it better. Makes sense in my head! 😉 Now I know why pattern instructions are so inscrutable. It’s really hard to write good instructions. So I had a couple of those adjustments to make and now I have one of the front pattern pieces to my sloper done (well almost — we still need to add the waist darts). But how awesome is that????!!!!!
We have 5 more classes and I can’t wait. Mr. King said he would teach us how to make different styles of pants by adjusting our sloper too. So cool. I am one of those people who learns by seeing and doing, so taking classes is really the way to go for me. It’s hard for me to translate written directions into the physical world. I think I may have already mentioned that before once or twice. 😉
Happy pattern drafting everyone!