Yesterday I boldly stated that I would not be pad stitching my lapels. Anita C commented that I might want to reconsider that decision. So, with an entire evening to myself dedicated to sewing, I decided to do a little research. I took out all my books that had the slightest mention of jackets and coats and looked through them. Interesting things of note: not one book called it pad stitching. One called it slant basting. The only book I owned with great instructions was the Reader’s Digest sewing bible. So I thought about it long and hard. I knew if I went ahead with the pad stitching I would be adding on one or two days of more construction to my already late coat. I put on my shell one more time to check the drape of the interfaced undercollar. I looked in the mirror and…
It looked fine. I called Carolyn and asked her opinion. And she said to ditch the pad stitching. Since I was leaning in that direction already, I decided to let it go.
I was almost to the point where I needed to add shoulder pads. I had bought some from P&S Fabrics, my neighborhood sewing stuff store last week.
I knew at the time of purchase that there was something off about these pads. The insert was made of foam and the outside was made of some synthetic fabric. It just seemed too poofy and retained its shape too well. I have niggling feeling that this shoulder pad will not decompose for a millenia it’s so unnatural.
Anyhoo, I snuck a peek at my RTW winter coat to see how big its shoulder pads were. And I found out some very interesting things. It’s shoulder pads were made of four layers of cotton fleece batting that were fused together with no outer fabric encasing them. They were sewn into armscye/shoulder seam allowance and tacked to the shoulder seam, then the lining was tacked to the pad itself. Very cool. The sleeve head was sewn into the same armscye/shoulder seam allowance but on the bottom and was made of polyester fill batting. I thought to myself. I can do that and got out my measuring tape.
The measurements of my winter coat’s shoulder pads were pretty much dead on for the P&S shoulder pad, even down to the thickness, but I liked the feel and malleability of the winter coat shoulder pads so much more. I happen to have cotton fleece batting in my stash from when I made my one and only quilt. I just used that and measured out all the pieces of the winter coat shoulder pads and steam a seamed them together. And presto change-o, I had me some should-a-ma-pads!
Isn’t that cool?!?! I forgot to take pictures of my sleeve heads, but they’re just rectangular pieces of polyester fill batting measuring about 8 inches by 2.5 inches.
I worked on my sleeves next last night. One detail that I absolutely adore about this pattern is the ease provided for the elbow at the back of the sleeve. That is sooo cool. Love it. Here’s a pic of my unattached sleeve with ease stitches already gathered for ease of insertion (see the elbow ease added to the left of the seam allowances? Despite the gathers shown there, there was no puckering at the seam).
I cannot wait to work on my coat again tonight.
Happy sewing everyone!