On my way

Simplicity 2337 won out as my favorite but not for the reasons you might think.  Yes, it won yesterday’s poll as the hands down favorite.  But, again, that’s not why I chose it.  As I was sitting watching zombies last night (love that show), I perused the pattern pieces of the patterns I had on hand, having not received my package from ButtMcVogue yet.  So that left me with V8529, S2648, S2337, and B5522. 

Originally I was just going to go with B5522, because I just adore those sleeves.  I decided against that one though ultimately due to the shapelessness of the dress (not wanting to make this a long drawn out muslining process to get a good look and fit) and because I had read on reviews of this pattern that the sleeves are pretty fiddly.  I want a somewhat simple and fast project.

Someone had made a comment about double-knit not being really drapey.  So that took V8529 out of contention as the drape cowl is a major component of the design.  I know Carolyn said that it was drapey enough, but I don’t want to chance it.  Plus, I don’t like that CF yoke seam.  I looked at the pattern piece itself and I can see why they put a CF seam there, but think you can still jigger it to work on the fold. 

Then I seriously considered S2648 because I just adore the versions that Eugenia made, but two things deterred me.  As I mentioned yesterday, it doesn’t have long sleeves and it had many more pattern pieces than the other Simplicity pattern.  I know I could stick some other pattern’s sleeves on S2648, but I am not experienced to know if any old sleeve will work with any old armscye.  And, again, since I want this to be a relatively painless process before I move on to Xmas gift sewing, I just don’t want to fool with things endlessly.

Simplicity 2337

I thought S2337 would be complicated pattern just looking at the pattern envelope.  View A (top right) has pleating, a crossover bodice and cuffed sleeves.  But when I looked at the pattern pieces involved, it’s really a simple dress.  I read over the instructions and I didn’t see anything I didn’t understand at first glance, so the simplicity of the pattern (pun intended, hahaha) won me over. 

My only concern is this is an unlined pattern with facings.  I am wondering if I want to line it without facings.  Would that be simpler?  How do I line the pleated half of the bodice?  Should I pleat the pattern piece tissue and make the lining from that?  Here’s the line drawing.

What do you think I should do?  Lining or facings?  I think lining is nicer, but it might be a pain to reinvent the wheel.  But I am scared that the facings will constantly flip out as I know they are wont to do.  *sigh*  Nothing is ever cut in dried in sewing, is it?

So I cut my muslin last night and am ready to sew it tonight.  I cut out a 14, but suspect that I am now a 16.  I hope not, but we’ll see. 

Happy sewing everyone!

12 responses to “On my way

  1. Yay! I love that dress! I think it will look great on you! I vote to line it. You’ll be happier in the end that you spent the extra time. Have your seen this (http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4971/a-shortcut-to-great-linings) Threads article? It uses the facings that the pattern comes with, but integrates a lining in a simple way. Super method! I would incorporate the pleats into the lining as pleats. You may want the ease that they will give you, but you could tissue fit both ways and see what you prefer.

  2. I would use the center front pattern piece for view B, and modify the neckline to match view A. Use the Threads method for Facing A/lining B hybrid, but have an interior that is less bulky and more slip-like.

  3. What Bernadette said. 🙂

    This looks great and congrats on making your decision.

    For swapping out sleeve, I believe the SOP is to swap out the armscye, too.

  4. Can’t wait to see it!

  5. I usually attach a lining to the facing.
    In this case, it might be difficult to find a lining fabric which matches the slight stretch of the double knit. As far as the lining pattern is concerned, does this pattern have a full piece for the under-side of the surplice front? If so, that would be the center front panel minus those pleats. You could use that for pattern piece for the lining.

  6. I would use the View B centre front for the lining panel, and I would definitely use fused facings. I attach the lining to the lower edge of the facing, I think you get a better result. This is easy – it is just a matter of cutting off the facing portion on the lining, but leaving on twice the seam allowance so you can attach the lining and facing together.

  7. Marie-Christine

    Facings never flip out if you understitch, and mainly if you make them wide enough. Never less than 2″ finished size, which is wider than any big4 patterns, and thanks again to Sandra Betzina for prescribing 6″ in mid-back, I’ve never had a problem since.

  8. soundstitches

    Project Runway patterns drive me batty when on the back, each piece has its own fabric requirements and layout. If you’ve bought plenty of fabric it shouldn’t be a problem, however. You can easily transition from a 14 on top and 16 below or vice versa. Make sure to buy knit interfacing; otherwise it will not drape — at all! Good luck. – Kris, http://soundstitches.wordpress.com

  9. I was thinking about your pattern choices when I saw a doubleknit dress in a store today. It was exactly like this Vogue 8685 pattern! Can’t wait to see yours made up.


  10. I second what Marie-Christine said about facings. Go that route.

  11. Like soundstitches said, Project Runway patterns are kind of nutty. Their instructions are easy, as long as you know to keep track of the which view you are sewing with which “designer’s additions”. I also agree with Bernadette as far as what to do with lining. The PR patterns that I have used haven’t been lined either, so I feel your pain 🙂 Good luck with your muslin!

  12. Good choice – it will suit you nicely. I say line but I know understitching is also an option. Do you want to wear the dress for 5 years or don’t you care about length of wear? Lining will make it hold up better, imao.

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