Good news and Bad news

First the bad news:  I have to make another muslin.

Now the good news: I get to make it in a size smaller!!!

Last night I pushed through and finished a down and dirty muslin of S2337.  For a refresher, here’s the pic.

Simplicity 2337

Since I am making the dress using double-knit fabric, I had the hare-brained idea bright idea to use a stretch fabric.  However, did I use a similar knit fabric to what I will actually use for the final dress?  NO!  I used some leftover fabric that was too stretchy and too thin for this dress.  Live and learn, I guess.

There is no photographic evidence of this muslin.  I know you all want to see how hideous it was, but I was lucky that my camera battery was dead.  I made a sz 14 suspecting that I would need to move up to the sz 16 since I have gained weight recently.  So in my infinite wisdom, I thought I should sew just 1/2 inch side seams instead of 5/8ths giving me another inch all around.  The end result was hideously big. 

Of course I will need to make another muslin, gratefully in a sz 12 this next time, in real muslin.  I think this dress will be flattering once it’s in the right fabric and not giantess-sized, but it’s so hard to tell in its current drapey, stretchy, too big state. 

I can say with great confidence though that the neckline is Burda low.  In fact, I think you could see my belly button from space it’s so low.  Not sure how I’ll rectify that yet. 

Although I am bummed I have to make another muslin, thereby slowing my process down even more, I am glad to have vanity sizing and am excited to work on a new project again.  It’s been so long since I worked with a knit, it almost feels like an alien fabric in my hands.  I do love the stability of wovens, I have to say.

One note re: the drafting.  The princess seams on this bodice are a little tricky.   The side panel bust curve is really curvy, but the front panel to which it is sewn is not that curvy, so that creates lots of puckers, especially in an unstable fabric like a stretchy knit.  I will have to see how it works in a woven fabric first before I decide what method with which to tackle them once I start working with the double-knit.

Long story, short: More muslining tonight!

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On my way

Simplicity 2337 won out as my favorite but not for the reasons you might think.  Yes, it won yesterday’s poll as the hands down favorite.  But, again, that’s not why I chose it.  As I was sitting watching zombies last night (love that show), I perused the pattern pieces of the patterns I had on hand, having not received my package from ButtMcVogue yet.  So that left me with V8529, S2648, S2337, and B5522. 

Originally I was just going to go with B5522, because I just adore those sleeves.  I decided against that one though ultimately due to the shapelessness of the dress (not wanting to make this a long drawn out muslining process to get a good look and fit) and because I had read on reviews of this pattern that the sleeves are pretty fiddly.  I want a somewhat simple and fast project.

Someone had made a comment about double-knit not being really drapey.  So that took V8529 out of contention as the drape cowl is a major component of the design.  I know Carolyn said that it was drapey enough, but I don’t want to chance it.  Plus, I don’t like that CF yoke seam.  I looked at the pattern piece itself and I can see why they put a CF seam there, but think you can still jigger it to work on the fold. 

Then I seriously considered S2648 because I just adore the versions that Eugenia made, but two things deterred me.  As I mentioned yesterday, it doesn’t have long sleeves and it had many more pattern pieces than the other Simplicity pattern.  I know I could stick some other pattern’s sleeves on S2648, but I am not experienced to know if any old sleeve will work with any old armscye.  And, again, since I want this to be a relatively painless process before I move on to Xmas gift sewing, I just don’t want to fool with things endlessly.

Simplicity 2337

I thought S2337 would be complicated pattern just looking at the pattern envelope.  View A (top right) has pleating, a crossover bodice and cuffed sleeves.  But when I looked at the pattern pieces involved, it’s really a simple dress.  I read over the instructions and I didn’t see anything I didn’t understand at first glance, so the simplicity of the pattern (pun intended, hahaha) won me over. 

My only concern is this is an unlined pattern with facings.  I am wondering if I want to line it without facings.  Would that be simpler?  How do I line the pleated half of the bodice?  Should I pleat the pattern piece tissue and make the lining from that?  Here’s the line drawing.

What do you think I should do?  Lining or facings?  I think lining is nicer, but it might be a pain to reinvent the wheel.  But I am scared that the facings will constantly flip out as I know they are wont to do.  *sigh*  Nothing is ever cut in dried in sewing, is it?

So I cut my muslin last night and am ready to sew it tonight.  I cut out a 14, but suspect that I am now a 16.  I hope not, but we’ll see. 

Happy sewing everyone!

Contenders

I did some research tonight and looked through the completely unnecessarily large pattern collection for more dress patterns for which I could use double-knit fabric. 

Ok peeps.  Here we go.  These six patterns are the final contenders for my double-knit dress…

Vogue 8666

Love the color blocking opportunity with Vogue 8666.  And, while it does not have princess seams per se, I have a sneaking suspicion that there is shaping in those extra bodice seams.  Could I be right?

Vogue 8409

Next we have Vogue 8409.  I love that bodice.  Not sure if I have the body to rock the overall shape, but that bodice is killer!

Vogue 8529

On to Vogue 8529.  Possible color blocking opportunity here either with the yoke or the side panels.  Not sure if I am enamored with the center front seam on the yoke though.  Wondering if I can cut that piece on the fold.  Hmmmm….

Simplicity 2648

Then we have Simplicity 2648.  Great reviews for this dress, especially from Eugenia.  Has different cup sizes.  Side panel color blocking oppy?  Only drawback is no long sleeves for the dead of winter. 

Simplicity 2337

The next pattern contender is Simplicity 2337.  I really love view A with the vertical gathers on the bodice, the crossover and long sleeves.  Bonus: princess seams in front. 

Butterick 5522

And the final contender is the Muse knockoff, Butterick 5522.  I love those sleeves, but don’t know if I am up to their challenge right now.  And I would have to do major futzing to make this look less like the 60’s tent dress it is and into something a little more fitted.  I’m not talking sheath dress, but more of a fitted shift dress.

So, what do you think?  Here’s a poll.  Tell me what you think!

Whoa to the second power!

Remember when I saw one of the latest Butterick patterns walk by me at work?  Well guess what I saw at a pre-school tour this week!

Butterick 5522

None other than Butterick 5522 my friends!  In the black and white version no less.

Can you believe it?!?  I know I live in NYC, but still.  It’s pretty amazing to see the real life designer versions of sewing patterns walk right by you. 

I have to admit though, that this dress is pretty shapeless.  I love the sleeves but the dress was doing this woman no favors.  At least she didn’t look pregnant.  😉  

I wonder how I could make the dress less shapeless.

Patience is a four letter word

When I was born I was gifted with a voice and pretty much nothing else.  I can be heard far and wide and I can sing.  That’s about it.  I don’t know who handed out the virtues, but I received not one of them.  Patience?  I don’t even know the meaning of the word. 

I am done with the first batch of my super secret surprise (do you guys hate me yet with all this secret stuff?) and will find out tomorrow how it is received.  And I am soooooo ready to start on my next project, the double-knit dress.  I haven’t had a chance yet to raid my pattern stash to see if I already have a suitable pattern yet.  I’m sure I do, but I haven’t had a moment to spare (because of the super secret surprise, bwah hahahaha.  I am truly evil now.). 

Right now, I am waiting.  Not patiently waiting mind you, but impatiently waiting.  I’m tapping my foot.  I am beside myself with wondering if my patterns will arrive soon from ButtMcVogue.  Will my stretch tricot lining arrive early next week from Fabric.com?  Will I be able to work on the double-knit dress at all this weekend?

My only solace right now is the knowledge that I am taking a young sewing acolyte friend to the garment district this weekend.  A co-worker of mine is dipping her toes into the world of sewing and needs some notions for her current project.  I am slowly trying to convert all those around me into sewing.  So far, I’ve only ensnared two people.  But I am working on it.  Oh yes, I surely am. 

So as I wait for the postman, what are you working on?

Which reminds me, did you ever see the old movie, “The Postman Always Rings Twice”? 

Did you know that there’s an opera based on it (by Stephen Paulus)?  I sang one of the scenes from the opera once during my masters program.  Very cool stuff.

Hunting

This Saturday is the start of my evil plan to take over the world sewing one stitch at a time.  After that I am taking a much deserved break from the secret super surprise and before I start making my kids pj’s for Xmas.  I am going to make something for me, Me, MEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!

🙂

As I mentioned before, I am jonesing to make something from my small doubleknit collection.  Maybe the grey with some black accents.  Or black and red.  I haven’t had a chance to look through my hefty pattern collection yet, but I perused the selection at ButtMcVogue.  I would have liked to search by fabric type, but that kind of search option is not available on their sites.  Um, ButtMcVogue, it would be great if your search mechanism was a bit more robust please.  I settled, instead to look at all the dress offerings and then looking at what fabrics were suggested for each.  I wanted a slightly fitted dress to take advantage of the stretch of the doubleknit, but nothing too skin tight.  I don’t want to be asked again when my baby is due like I was asked this past weekend.  Can you believe it????  I was so pissed and then so depressed about it.  Where’s a white chocolate bar when you most need it?  Needless to say, I have been back to running.  Let me tell you, there’s nothing like someone saying you look so fat you might be pregnant to motivate you.

There was a sale at ButtMcVogue this past week, so I picked up a few patterns…

Butterick 5559

Remember how I saw someone at work wearing this exact dress???? 

Vogue 8409

Love this dress but may be a little low cut for work. 

Vogue 8666

I love how with this one you can use two different colors.  I wonder how I would color block if I use the view with the sleeves.  Keep the sleeves the main color or the accent color.  What do you think?

I have to look at what I already own too that would work well for double knits.  I’m sure I have at least 5 or 6 patterns from which to choose.

I can’t wait to sew for me!

Do you have any favorite patterns for doubleknits?

Barely treading water

With my blog reading that is…  I can’t believe how the sewing blogosphere has exploded over the past year.  Every time I turn around, there’s a new sewing blogger that I want to check out.  I think my google reader has over 250 subscriptions.  I am so behind in reading and making comments, it’s scary.  And to put salt on the wound, I am blocked from commenting on blogs at my day job, so I am forced to choose between blog commenting or sewing in the evenings.  I think you know which one I’m choosing, right?

How do you handle all of your blog reading?